Saida Zaynab

Saida Zahnab is an Iranian Shi’a mosque south of the city of Damascus. Josh and I visited it with one of our Fulbright scholar friends on the day commemorating the end of the 40-day mourning period of Ashura. On the day of Ashura, Shi’a Muslims mourn the death of Husayn ibn Ali, the prophet Muhammed’s grandson, who died during the Battle of Karbala.

I covered my hair out of respect, and to blend in more at the mosque.

On Ashura and during the 40-day mourning period which follows it, Shi’a worshipers show their grief and connection with the sufferings of Husayn by wailing, beating their chests and sometimes cutting themselves. The latter is no longer permitted inside many mosques because Islamic scholars are questioning its theological justification under the principles of Islam. We didn’t see anyone cutting themselves, but did see some of the blood dried on pilgrims and on friends who happened to get a little too close to the action.

One of the Fulbright scholars we met studies at Saida Zaynab mosque, and had arranged for a well-known Islamic scholar to speak in English about the historical importance of Ashura. He delivered a passionate recounting of the Battle of Karbala, and many of the women in the audience were wailing and crying as they heard the story retold. The visit gave us some insight into the sectarian violence going on in Iraq right now, and served as a reminder of the fervent devotion of the Shi’a religious community.